Milan Fashion Week AW17: Gucci day
Highlights from the Gucci show include a glittery chainmail-like bodysuit, floral suits for both genders and Tom Hiddleston (for both genders)
THE SHOW: GUCCI
A glass-covered runway wrapped around a pyramid that was topped with a weathervane, all bathed in a purple light.
The front row
Alexa Chung, Florence Welch, Hari Nef, A$AP Rocky, Tom Hiddleston, Jared Leto.
Gucci was the first show of Milan Fashion Week, and Alessandro Michele delivered a multi-layered whopper. While we waited for the show to start, there were three things to do: celeb spot (Tom Hiddleston passed within an arm's length of me), gaze at the heavy purple curtain concealing the set, and try and demystify Michele's show notes. Sample: "The alchemist's garden is an anti-modern laboratory because it denies some of the principles on which is based a certain scientism characterised by rigidity and determinism."
When it began, it was just as intense. There were 120 looks, combining men and women, which took Michele staples that we've now come to recognise as Gucci signatures – vibrant florals, exaggerated silhouettes, chunky glasses, ruffles, brocade – and mixed them with new elements: Oriental touches like twirl-worthy parasols (the next logical step from last season's fans, perhaps), filmy floral leggings that are bound to be a street style favourite, and even a Batman-type motif on a men's sweater that all the girls are going to borrow.
It was a visually overwhelming show: so many layered references, so many mashed-up pieces of iconography, and so. Much. Colour. Many of the women's looks could have easily belonged on the men, and vice versa, with floral suits on both genders, as well as full-length coats and capes.
Major WTF moment: a glittering chainmail-like bodysuit that also covered the whole face. There was even a Gucci bride at the end, walking the runway in top-to-toe white ruffles and sunglasses.
And when Michele came out, in a yellow T-shirt with his beautiful hair bouncing in the wind, it was to a standing ovation.