ELLE.MY editor's Milan Fashion Week diaries: Day 3
A big day with some of fashion's biggest players, six shows, two resees, model spotting, a tram ride and a slice of delicious cheesy pizza
Day 3, Friday, began with one of the big guns of Milan Fashion Week – Emporio Armani, the first of Mr Armani's two shows during the week. Held in Armani's stadium-like theatre in suburban Milan, the show started with a parade of girls who, with their shaggy black mops of hair and wholly black and red clothes, bore a distinct resemblance to Jack White of The White Stripes. I.e. not very 'Armani'.
While we did see the kind of streamlined pieces more aligned with what we have come to anticipate from the first man of Italian fashion during his 40-year career, this collection was otherwise full of novelties: a furry gilet with lapels and hip pockets, lots of variations on ruffles, ikat prints and two looks featuring a skirt and a top covered in a strange but sweet little detail of purple fur trimmed semi-circles that fluttered like the eyelashes of a Chinese New Year lion.
Emporio Armani AW15 (Photos: Imaxtree.com)
Afterwards I took the tram to Sportmax (Milan's public transport system, luckily for me, is very good). This was a show full of lush oversized cardigans and knits I just wanted to lie down and fall asleep in. Instead, I did the next best thing and followed the fashion crowd across the road for a slice of takeaway pizza from a tiny, crowded shop. It was amazing cheesy goodness and I ate it while strolling to the Prada resee.
Resees are an opportunity to get up close with the clothes you've seen on the runway, and choose which ones you might like to feature in the magazine. Whether you enjoyed a collection or not, a resee always gives greater appreciation for the incredible work and care that goes into each and every one. And when it's a collection you already love, such as I did Prada, it's one of the most pleasurable aspects of the job we do, and a reminder of how lucky we are to get to do it.
After oohing and aahing over all the little details (which you will hear more about in coming months) it was time to dash to the Bulgari presentation, held of course, at the Bulgari Hotel. This time I was able to jump in a car with some of the Singaporean press, including the wonderful editor of ELLE Singapore, Sharon Lim, and then again onto Tod's. Many of the journalists pool together to share a car and driver for the duration of fashion week, and it does make busier days easier, as long as you don't mind dealing with the notorious MFW traffic.
Bulgari has some beautiful new bags out this season, including exotic skin and mink numbers, and again we will be seeing more of those in the magazine in coming months. After a quick cocktail at the garden bar it was onto Palazzo Arese Litta, a stunning Baroque castle in the centre of Milan, for Tod's (see lead photo, above).
Tod's AW15 (Photos: Imaxtree.com)
Perched on gilt chairs, under 300 year old ceiling frescoes and glittering chandeliers, we watched Alessandra Facchinetti continue to push the boundaries of Tod's, a leather accessories company at heart, that has made a move into ready-to-wear. Alessandra has done a stellar job of modernising leather, and making it easier to wear, but there is only so far you can push it. For us in Malaysia a leather trench has about as much appeal as sitting in a tin foil coat in a hot car. Which is why it was so great to see the majority of the collection was made up of non-leather pieces.
The key feature of the bags this season was a foldover zippered opening and slip-through handle so it can be carried like a clutch at thigh level. Really loved the midnight blue suede version of this. Also, was a fan of the geometric multi-material pendants and chunky pale pink, white stone and gold rings.
From Tod's, back on foot for the walk to the Aigner show, where folkloric gypsy vibe was the main idea for the brands's 50th anniversary year. But my abiding memory is of a lurid green shaggy coat. Because how could it not be.
Versace AW15 (Photos: Imaxtree.com)
The day ended as it began, in a way, with one of the heavy hitters – Versace. The models made their entrance by walking down two flights of stairs at the top of the runway – in huge platform heels, of course. I wanted to give them all a hug for not just doing it but doing it with the kind of sex appeal Versace demands! The collection itself was dominated by traffic light colours and black. Some of the evening dresses referenced the atelier collection we've seen on quite a few red carpets recently, with their cut outs and mesh details. Karlie Kloss stalked out in all red, from her neck to her bum-grazing boots, and for me that was the look of the show in one: brazen, bold and beautiful.
There was a new logo too, the house's Greek key adapted to #[Greek] and emblazoned in crystals or print. It was one of several digital era icons used; there were also emojis and @ symbols. And I predict queues for the individual rings spelling out 'Versace' in coloured crystals.
Day 3 was a big one, but Saturday will be even bigger: Peter Dundas's final show for Emilio Pucci. (Donatella, have you got a sad face emoji?)