ELLE.MY editor's Milan Fashion Week diaries: Day 1
Jostling at airports with fashion media royalty and one big Gucci show make for a good start to Milan Fashion Week
Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week began calmly for ELLE, which was a good thing because the jet lag situation is real. There was only one show on my schedule today, but it was a big one: Gucci, and the womenswear debut of the label's new creative director, Alessandro Michele.
Before we get to that, some backstory. At the airport the day before, I shared a luggage carousel with Edward Enninful, W magazine's fashion director (and BFF to Rihanna), and Katie Grand, Love magazine's editor and unofficially the World's Best Stylist. (Only unofficial because I'm pretty sure there isn't an Olympics for stylists but if there was she would totally take home all the gold in every event.)
Edward's luggage was Louis Vuitton, and what do you think Katie's was? Just give up now because you will never ever guess. She was carrying... a North Face backpack! And it seemed virtually empty. That blew my tiny mind. And then I saw her at Gucci wearing this spectacular coat and spiky shoes, and couldn't understand how they could ever have come out of a North Face backpack. So either she sends her luggage ahead with minions or she got the whole look here in Milan. Or maybe I need to get some sleep and stop thinking about this so much. Maybe.
So, the show. Very crowded. Many editors relegated off the front row. Much grumbling. It was difficult for most of us to see below waist level, to be fair, which was a shame, because the shoes were (I discovered later on Instagram) a highlight. Furry slide-on loafers, Pom Pom ankle ties, and what looked like leftovers from the Jim Henson factory. All flats.
The clothes, on the other hand, were far more organic, less slick, than seasons past. There was less sex, more romance. Dusty florals. Seventies geek chic, with big glasses and flat hair. The muse seemed to be Margot Tenenbaum, right down to the beret and the fur coat, although the show notes quoted Barthes: 'the contemporary is the untimely.'
A fur coat in pink and red chevron stripes was a crowd pleaser. Pussybow blouses and pleated midi skirts in metallic finishes were librarian chic. Tapestry coats and silver sequinned birds were pure whimsy, while flower print suits and lace camisoles felt quite Bloomsbury.
Photos: Getty Images
Given that he and his team pulled the whole thing together in barely six weeks, it was a good start for Michele. It felt very 'real' which obviously has commercial appeal. Apparently he likes to sit outside cafes and people watch, and that wearable street influence could certainly be felt. But let's hope he gives us at least one heel next season.
A big day tomorrow, with two of my most anticipated shows, Fendi and Prada, on the schedule. Prada's invite is made of soft nude leather, while Fendi's is two circles of purples, pinks and reds. Let's see how those hints play out in the shows.
Related: Gucci AW15
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