ELLE Editor-in-Chief's Paris Fashion Week diary: Day 4
Andrea meets Inès de la Fressange at the Roger Vivier presentation and is wowed by Junya Watanabe and Elie Saab's shows
I was excited to get an invitation to Junya Watanabe for the first time, so the early 9.30am show time didn't faze me too much. It was everything I had dreamed of. The protégé of Comme des Garçons' Rei Kawakubo delivered a brilliantly high-concept collection, which shouldn't distract from the technical mastery needed to create these clothes. And Watanabe has those skills in spades.
The show started simple enough, with a buttoned-up white shirt and a black knee-length wide skirt. Then things got progressively complex and a lot more interesting. Exaggerated honeycomb mesh, origami pleating and 3D waffles were seen on skirts, coats and capes, topped off with equally geometric headpieces that vaguely resembled lampshades, but somehow worked as a full look. In context, of course.
Then it was off to my first resee of the season, and it was a good one: Loewe. Jonathan Anderson was inspired by science for autumn, and you can see elements of that in coats that resembled lab coats, sunglasses that resembled lab goggles, mini suede skirts with hypnotic patterns (more science fiction than scientist), and even a fun satellite print on leather skirts that are part of the commercial collection not shown on the runway.
Loewe sunglasses and skirts (Photo: ellemalaysia/Instagram)
While there was an 80s sensibility to the silhouettes, the collection felt completely current. There were roomy jackets paired with slouchy wide-legged pants, below-the-knee tunic dresses worn over pants and tea-length pleated skirts with knee-high boots. These are grown-up looks. But that certainly doesn't make them any less cool. As for the bags, you want to look out for the one featured on the runway with the brightly hued V-shaped leather link strap that can be detached or clipped to one side as an accessory.
Loewe bags (Photo: ellemalaysia/Instagram)
Next was the Roger Vivier presentation, where I got a photo-op with the always stylish Inès de la Fressange, the face of the brand, who was gracious and gorgeous. I later found out that I had unwittingly photobombed one of her Instagram photos, so now I am (un)officially on her feed. Achievement unlocked.
(Photo: ellemalaysia/Instagram; inesdelafressangeofficial/Instagram)
Now let's talk about the shoes. This season the brand went outside of its purview (elegant, glamorous and opulent) and injected a youthful, tomboy-ish spirit to the collection in studded ankle boots that were a bit punk and two-toned Derbys that were mannish. There was also a range of pop-ish bags and shoes featuring star motifs and paint splatters that were pure fun.
Roger Vivier shoes and accessories(Photo: ellemalaysia/Instagram)
On to the next show, which was Elie Saab, the go-to label for the glamour girl. And what a glamorous collection it was, from the floor-grazing gowns with colourful botanical prints and beaded leaf motifs to curve-skimming sheer black lace dresses and leather jumpsuits, paired with opera-length leather gloves. Designed for the woman who is fabulous and knows it.
Elie Saab AW15 (Photo: Imaxtree.com)
Last but in no means least, I headed over to the presentation of our very own Bernard Chandran who, after nine years of showing in London, has moved his show to Paris for the first time. It's a homecoming of sorts for the designer, who studied and trained in the city. The collection was inspired by the modern-day warrior woman, and standout looks included a mirror metallic top made from an industrial metal fabric and a slashed top and skirt look inspired by feathers. It was strong debut, and here's wishing Bernard continued success in Paris!
Bernard Chandran's collection (Photo: ellemalaysia/Instagram)