ELLE Ed-in-Chief's Paris Fashion Week diary: day 2
Carven's new creative directors debut a strong collection, and after watching the H&M show, Andrea gets to scratch a shopping itch
Day 2 kicked off with Carven in the morning. Creative directors Alexis Martial, previously the creative director at Iceberg, and Adrien Caillaudaud, who worked on shoes and accessories at Givenchy, were announced as successors to Guillaume Henry just days ago. (Guillaume, in turn, moved to Nina Ricci, replacing Peter Copping who went to Oscar de la Renta. And fashion's musical chairs continue.) Considering their very recent appointment, the duo showed a strong and coherent collection that felt modern and relevant, despite a distinctive retro vibe coursing through the show.
Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial (Photo: Imaxtree.com)
Short A-line skirts were paired with blouses, sweaters and matching short jackets, but always with a turtleneck or a high-collar to cover the neck, a styling element that, right now, just feels right. One look in particular, look 15, made me sit up and pay attention: bright blue stovepipe pants paired with a roomy brown leather jacket with an oversized shearling collar (see above). It looked sleek, cosy and sexy all at the same time. The accessories were noteworthy as well, with large disc necklaces and brightly coloured chunky slingbacks paired with contrasting ribbed socks. It was an enjoyable show, despite the fact that we had to wait half an hour for it to start (due to one Solange Knowles' late arrival. But because you're awesome Solange, I won't stay mad at you).
For lunch, I headed to Angelina on Rue de Rivoli. This tea salon is an establishment in Paris and a must visit during Paris Fashion Week, even if it only for its legendary chocolat chaud (hot chocolate). I indulged in a cup, and even took it a step further by spooning in some whipped cream. This is not something that you order and then hold back on. For lunch, I had stewed beef served with seasonal vegetables and a potato galette, which was as delicious as it sounds.
Chocolate eclairs at Angelina (Photo: ellemalaysia/Instagram)
After lunch, it was time for the H&M resee, and a chance to look at last night's collection in detail. Upon closer inspection, I was surprised to see the collection was a lot more space-age-like than I had originally thought. Prints were very celestial and those standout moon boots, which I had somehow failed to notice on the runway, were certainly out of this world. But let's not forget that this is still H&M, a brand that is all about accessibility, and the strongest aspect of this collection is that it is grounded in wearable pieces that are modern and, in fact, not very retro after all.
I got a chance to speak to Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M's head of design, who said "we didn't want it to be retro at all. There's so much retro going on, and we wanted it to feel modern, fresh… the important thing was to take it forward and to make it feel contemporary." She shared that her favourite piece is the green quilted jacket that Edie Campbell opened the show with. My own favourite look was the black leather dungarees paired with the oversized ombré sweater, also worn by Edie Campbell. The math is simple: Edie Campbell is everyone's favourite.
H&M (Photo: Imaxtree.com)
So inspired was I by H&M that I made straight for the flagship store on Champs Elysees, also because I found out that the current season of H&M Studio Spring/Summer 2015 was going to be on sale today in a handful of stores across Paris, in conjunction with Paris Fashion Week. This collection will only be available in Malaysia on 16 March, so with the three pieces I bought from the collection I felt very special indeed.
Then it was time to look at fashion from a different perspective. I headed to Prada's flagship boutique on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré for a special preview of the Prada The Iconoclasts installation, by iconic costume designer Milena Canonero. In the press release, Canonero says, "drawing on my background in film, photography and painting, I sought to reinterpret the collection through the four elements – water, fire, air and earth – and create imaginary situations that culminate in the fifth element, human love." Mannequins dressed in Prada Spring/Summer 2015 were posed in evocative ways to beautiful effect, from one dressed in black with wings straddling a male mannequin, to a trio seated rather nonchalantly with open legs on a red couch where one is blowing a pink bubble and another sitting on a metal swing with her legs kicked out and a mule about to fall off her foot.
Prada Iconoclast (Photo: ellemalaysia/Instagram)
Tomorrow, I attend Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and, one of the hottest tickets this week, Dior. Check back in to read my thoughts on them!