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ELLE Ed-in-Chief's Paris Fashion Week diary: Day 3

Yohji Yamamoto stages moving installations, Dior redefines animal print and Issey Miyake applies origami to fashion

By Andrea Wong | Published: 9 Mar 2015

Video: ELLE Malaysia

The first thing on the schedule today was the Diane von Furstenberg Autumn/Winter '15 press day, held at DVF's Paris showroom. I was more than a little star-struck when Diane von Furstenberg herself walked in looking all fabulous with her amazing hair and oversized shades, and wearing look 25 from her current collection (which she wore the heck out of). The collection is called 'Seduction', and is made for the modern power woman. "By day she commands her world, by night she inspires fantasy," said Diane. Daytime looks included pinstriped suiting softened with silk blouses and some fun and flirty dresses in confetti and lipprints. Come night time, it's all sexy in peek-a-boo lace gowns in vamp-y red and black. The new Double Agent bag is the perfect accessory for this DVF woman, a structured top-handle bag that means business, but has a front pouch that can be unzipped to become an envelope clutch for the perfect day-to-night transition.

(Photo: ellemalaysia/Instagram)

Next was Issey Miyake. Gorgeous, stunning Issey Miyake. You can't think of the innovative Japanese label without thinking of origami pleating. The backbone of the collection was the series of oversized coats, tops and skirts in exaggerated silhouettes and hues of muted purple, red, green and yellow, all with subtle origami pleating, and the kaleidoscopic looks at the end of the show, with much more obvious and delightful origami detailing.

Issey Miyake AW15 (Photo: Imaxtree.com)

But the highlight was the finale, where models walked out wearing mesh body suits and stockings, with what appeared to be large fabric belts. Once in their spotlight they started twirling, and the 'belts' unfolded into multicoloured skirts, demonstrating yet another masterful technique in fabric manipulation that is at the core of the house (watch the video above). The invitation card made a lot more sense now (it was a small rectangle that unfolded into a large circle, which was so technologically advanced for me that I didn't know how to fold it back).

Issey Miyake AW15 (Photo: Imaxtree.com)

After an amazing lunch at L'Ardoise (crispy pancake with snails, bacon and mushroom to start with followed by seared duck legs with gravy and finished off with Feuillantine praline and caramelised apples. Salivating yet?), I headed to the Cour Carrée exhibition hall at the Louvre Museum for the Dior show. According to the show notes, Simons "embraces an idea of the primal and the patterned to convey notions of the liberated and sensual." There was certainly something subversive about the collection, from the bondage-type pinafore to the slashed skirts and the vinyl boots that went up to there (I don't know where that is exactly as they disappeared underneath the short skirts and dresses).

Dior AW15 (Photo: Imaxtree.com)

And then there are the 'animal' prints, that are abstracted and 'hyper-natural', a word repeated twice in the show notes. But amid these 'wild' looks, including the knitted jacquard body suits, there were extremely wearable pieces like the modern suit (double-breasted jacket and cropped pants) and slouchy opera coats that we'll all want to be wearing this fall. When we visit cold countries.

Dior AW15 (Photo: Imaxtree.com)

The last show of the day was Yohji Yamamoto at 8.30pm, although it only started past 9pm. Actually to be honest I didn't even realise it had started at all. The lights didn't change and the music didn't come on. I only looked up from my phone when a short burst of a piano score came on and I saw the model already in the middle of the show space. The piano score continued to come on in short intervals until halfway through the show when there was a proper(ish) soundtrack and the lights eventually flooded on. I want to say that it was a technical malfunction, but knowing the subversive Japanese designer, it was probably all part of his master plan. It seems apt that he shows only at night, as his clothes are, after all, mainly black. And they also seem best suited for the nocturnal types: dark, mysterious and a bit gothic.

Yohji Yamamoto AW15 (Photo: Imaxtree.com)

This collection was again, save for six looks, predominantly black. You had your usual draping, louche tailoring and a couple of long lace dresses. Yohji fans are certainly not going to be disappointed. But the looks that made us all sit up a take notice were the ones that resembled moving installations. Mounds of fabric were draped and stretched over frames and wires constructed as makeshift skirts around the models. It was weird and wonderful, and admittedly not something that you could walk down the street in. But sometimes fashion is all about the theatre, and who doesn't like a good show?

 

You just have to see these dresses in motion #yohjiyamamoto #pfw #aw15 #fw15 #ellemyrunway

A video posted by ELLE Malaysia (@ellemalaysia) on

Related: ELLE Ed-in-Chief's Paris Fashion Week diary: Day 1
Related: ELLE Ed-in-Chief's Paris Fashion Week diary: Day 2


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